Visser's Poffertje Salon, 9 Groenmarkt, Dordrecht

When the Vissers tired of travelling fairs and markets making and selling their fine poffertjes, they took a big risk. They bought an old butcher's shop in Dordrecht and set up their Poffertjes Salon. Could they make a go of it? Would people come into the shop? Would they be able to move with the times?

Well 81 years later, the Visser's Poffertje Salon is still knocking out poffertjes like there's no tomorrow. When clearly, in the poffertje's business, there is. I suspect that the biggest changes, perhaps the only ones, were the introduction of gas to fire the ancient Poffertje iron, and the banning of smoking. I'm thinking the locals might still mutter darkly about both.

The secret of success here is simple. A huge, evenly heated Poffertje iron, lashings of butter paint-brushed on, batter just so, and more lashings of butter and an avalanche of icing sugar to serve.

It is important to do something strenuous before eating here....run a marathon, swim the channel, ice skate from Amsterdam. You can then at least pretend that it is a zero sum game. It won't be. Afterwards, sleep or loll around in an alcove, contemplating another serve with Grand Marnier at 5.20 euro or perhaps a Trappe tripel to seal your fate.