Ypres is a Belgian city of about 30,000 people. It has a glorious past, once the centre of Europe's textile industry and a very wealthy place.
It was completely destroyed in the first world war - only smoking ruins remained. The rebuilding of Ypres is remarkable. Its major cathedrals, great square and civic buildings have been reconstructed to original designs. It has the feel of a much larger centre. The war is an important business for Ypres - with 500,000 allies killed in this area alone, lots of people are connected and visit.
With Christmas approaching, the square was decked out with an ice rink and market. I bought a hat, despite having the sort of head that should be uncovered - or fully covered.
Around Ypres - 'wipers' to the allies - the countryside is gently rolling farmland, picturesque under the snow. War cemeteries are everywhere. Ploughed fields remain full of the detritus of war - a memorabilia shopkeeper told me that if you haven't picked up a bullet or buckle after five minutes walk, you aren't looking.
One icy night we walked down to Menin Gate for the service that happens there every night at eight - and has since 1928. About a hundred shivering souls joined us for a short, moving last post. Oh so many young men perished here. It is palpable, a hundred years on.
Real snow
Fake snow
Menin Gate in the distance
Christmas market in the great square
A pensive Hugh at Menin Gate
Eight pm at Menin Gate
Pheasant tracks
the rebuilt Ypres cloth market
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