We went to Rotterdam for the day but it was closed

Rotterdam is Holland's second largest city after Amsterdam. It was occupied by the nazis in the second world war. They launched a massive bombing raid on the city as ground troops invaded to encourage Dutch capitulation. Because it is an excellent port, german occupation was intolerable to the allies and they bombed the bejesus out of it.

So Rotterdam had the unusual experience of being hammered by both sides. Most of the beautiful old city is dust. There are just pockets of charming old buildings along canals - bad aim? Ran out of bombs? Anyway, Rotterdam prides itself on its post-war reconstruction, edgy architecture and hipness. A little too much. Sort of like Melbourne.

We wanted to give the kids a day of things they would like (juvenile respite from antiquity and heady views), so headed to Rotterdam on the Waterbus - a sleek, fast catamaran that races down the 'Oude Maas' in fifty minutes, jostling with massive barges, complete with owner's car, speedboat and 'house' on the back, tugs and other river craft - this is a serious working river.

So far so good. We arrive at Rotterdam and make our way to what the map says is the 'Mariniers Museum'. Note, this is not the maritime museum, which is twenty minutes walk in the other direction. Gentle rain falling, we make good progress to the real maritime museum, visible for 500 m down the road. We approach in strengthening rain. We plan coffee, cake and toilet before an enjoyable visit. It is closed.

We take stock and decide to seek out the VVV - tourist information - to plan a revised kid-friendly itinerary. Now wet, we find it in the centre of town. As we enter, a young lady rushes us to say that they are filming and they would prefer we did not come in, or remain silent if we do. We opt for Caity and High's version of silence.

Where's the toilet, I whisper, legs crossed. There is a toilet upstairs, but it is only for staff, I am told. Syl collects some tourist brochures - 1 euro - and we rush to the toilet in the railway station to spend four by 35 euro cents. Over coffee we plot our next move - there is a children's science museum, very hands on - you take home what you make. We joke that they might build a monster. Hughie decides to build a puppy. And we double check that it is open on Mondays. Yes - beauty.

It is a long, wet walk. The children's science museum is on pannekoeken - pancake - street. And it is closed on Mondays.

After a few minutes weeping quietly in the rain, reminiscing about the accuracy of the allied bombers, we give up, make our way to the Waterbus, via a lolly shop - and leave Rotterdam behind in our wake.  The kids load up with lollies on the way back and are deleriously happy. And after another glass of this fine french rose I shall be too!